Yes, Young Fogey, Yerevan is still very pink. Interesting contrast with Tbilisi; here, the hey-day of civic construction and national culture was obviously over a century ago. Yerevan is full of new money from abroad, and not a lot else. The lack of traffic on the main road to the outside world from Armenia is telling.

Thanks for the restaurant tip, – actually I think I ate there last July. Off to somewhere else (?The Mill?) for dinner now.