NB: This post is not in any way meant to be a guide to the situation in Kosovo, which I have written a great deal about in other places and at other times; it is a record of a road trip that I took in 2006, with a few reflections based on my previous experiences and stealing from Brian Aldiss’s 1965 books, Cities and Stones.

I was in Kosovo last week, for the first time in ages – probably my dozenth visit overall, but only my third since independence in 2008. I had the idea that I could do some then-and-now photographs showing how much things had changed since my early visits – I first went in 2000, the year after the war – but didn’t manage (and haven’t yet managed) to dig those pre-digital era photos out of the attic.

However I did find something else in my archives, photos from a trip to Kosovo in early 2006, two years before independence while it was still under UN rule, with the captions that I had posted to a Livejournal gallery intending to write a blog post which I never got around to. So, better late than never, here’s the gallery of my visit to Kosovo almost 19 years ago, with my original captions and commentary from today. My photos from last week’s visit will follow.

It looks like I must have flown into Prishtina and then driven to Macedonia for some reason – the main road was closed so we crossed the border via a mountain track. It was not actually snowing, but it took forever. On the way back north we just went the long way round through Tetovo, which was much safer.

I am trying to work out which track this could have been. The online maps show an alternate route across the border from Viti to Brodets, and the satellite pictures of the crossing point at 42.225384, 21.371863 look similar to the photos above. But who knows?

I haven’t recorded whether the memorial to Aqim Selmani below was on the mountain road or seen on the other route the next day, but the latter is more likely, as much more of the fighting in 2001 was in the Tetovo area and the terrain looks less challenging. I found a clearer picture of the memorial on Facebook which shows his dates of birth and death as 4 April 1964 and 5 August 2001. Another source gives the date of his death as 5 August rather than 6 August. I have not found specific reference to the incident in which he was killed anywhere. The peace agreement that would end the conflict was on the verge of being signed over that August weekend in 2001, and the fighting was over only a couple of days later.

The next day, we headed over to the west of Kosovo, and specifically to the Visoki Dečani Monastery. While I captioned the next picture as showing Montenegro, a check of the map suggests that the mountainsides visible here are on the Kosovo side of the border, though the frontier does run along the top of the range; but more crucially, it’s the border with Albania not Montenegro.

The Visoki Dečani Monastery is one of the most important places for the Serbian Orthodox Shurch, and protection of its heritage was one of the sticking points in negotiation around the future status of Kosovo. I don’t remember if there were extra security checkpoints on the way in, and we probably would not have been allowed to take photos as they were. Perched in a steep-sided valley, it’s rather charming. Brian Aldiss wrote:

Of all the churches in Jugoslavia, Dečani seens the most lovely. Certainly it is the richest, and the air of serenity with which it stays among its surrounding dormitories, halls and orchards is impressive. Dečani looks eternal. It is a century older than Magdalen College, Oxford, two centuries older than Magdalene College, Cambridge, and was built when the medieval Serbian state was prospering… I wanted to stay near Dečani and visit it every day.

In 2006, the charm was offset by the tension over its future in a potentially independent Kosovo; which of course is why I was there.

A much younger me with Sava Janjić, who is the best known personality in the monastery. He became the abbot in 2011, five years after we met.

A couple of photos of iconography in Prishtina, first Ramush Haradinaj being the KLA leader and prime minister who had surrendered to the international war crimes tribunal in The Hague a year before (he was acquitted twice, and returned as PM in 2017-2020); and then Ibrahim Rugova, leader of Kosova before the conflict and president after, who had died just a few weeks before my 2006 visit – I also went to pay my respects at his grave, but we did not take photos there.

Finally we went to the battlefield where it all began, the Gazimestan where Slobodan Milošević gave his infamous 1989 speech which blew the starting whistle for the subsequent conflicts. I haven’t been in touch with my former colleague S for years, but I saw A in Kosovo last weekend where he entertained me for dinner with his wife and daughters (born some time after 2006), and M passes through Brussels frequently.

It’s OK to take pictures of the flags, just not of the military installations.

2024 pictures coming soon.