13 July 2006 – Witnessing the independence of a new and old state

It was a warm Mediterranean evening. We all gathered on the lawn of the President’s villa. There were perhaps 300 guests. The mood was festive, everyone shaking hands and embracing. The moment eventually came when the President and his wife walked down the lane to the podium, followed by the top guests: the Prime Minister and his wife, and the President of Serbia, the President of Croatia, the Serbian foreign minister, and various other dignitaries. Given that the country had just seceded from Serbia, and had been at war with Croatia not all that long ago, the presence of the heads of neighbouring states was pretty remarkable. 

The referendum had been seven weeks before, on 21 May 2006, followed by a re-delcaration of independence on 3 June; but the Treaty of Berlin, recognizing Montenegro’s first round of independence, was signed on 13 July 1878, and that remained the historical independence day despite its rule from Belgrade after 1918.

The guards played a fanfare, and then a young man began to sing the new/old nation’s anthem, joined in the second verse by a young woman, without any other accompaniment, their voices trembling with emotion. For the first time in nine decades, Montenegro was celebrating its traditional independence day as an independent state. They didn’t drop a beat, or miss a note. It was one of the most electrifying things I have ever witnessed.

The President then made a speech – mercifully brief, in that he was aware that many of his guests don’t have a good grasp of the local language (whatever it may be called). He referred to July 13th as the historical date when Montenegro was recognised by the Great Powers of Europe as an independent state in 1878, but enlarged much more on the other anniversary commemorated, the beginning of the Montenegrin rebellion against fascist occupation in 1941. This was smart politics; the most bitter internal opponents of independence were those who felt particularly loyal to Tito and the Partisan legacy. Having said that, most of us in the audience probably appreciated the brevity more than the content.

There may be official photographs in some government archive on a Podgorica web server; I didn’t take any myself. I did get a lovely first day cover set of stamps, which are my only physical memories of a remarkable evening.

I was an early supporter of Montenegro’s independence in Brussels policy circles after I started working here in 1999, and was variously told that I was crazy, deluded or corrupt. Now Montenegro is at the front of the queue to join the EU, and the European Commission seriously expects that the accession treaty will be wrapped up this calendar year and full membership will take effect some time in 2028. It’s quite an achievement for a small country.

Cetinje

I went to Montenegro last weekend, maybe for the tenth time in my life; I was attending a conference of the European Movement, and indeed moderated the last panel of the day. On Friday evening I was settling into the pre-drinks for the conference dinner when a discreet cough alerted me to the arrival of President Milatović, less formally dressed than I was.

I realise that unfortunately it looks like there is a straw flask coming out of my head, but that’s life.

The first time I went to Montenegro was in January 2002, where I got invited to the Economics Faculty‘s Christmas party (Christmas is in January in Montenegro). The entire international diplomatic community of Podgorica was there, I think all three or four of them. I also attended the first independence day celebration for about ninety years at the presidential palace in July 2006. At last week’s conference, the opening dinner on Thursday was attended by at least a dozen full ambassadors. Times change.

On the Saturday, I had a late-ish departure and decided that it was about time that I visited the ancient capital of Cetinje (pronounced TSET-in-yeh, [t͡sětiɲe]), where the Prince-Bishops ruled during Montenegro’s independence. Unfortunately it turns out that all the museums except one are closed at weekends, so I mostly took pictures of the outsides of buildings and other public art. Next time I’ll try and come on a weekday.

Court Church in Ćipur, founded 1480, rebuilt 1890

Cetinje Monastery, founded 1482, rebuilt 1704, also formerly the centre of government
The government building built by Prince-Bishop Petar II Petrović-Njegoš in 1838 and named ‘Biljarda’ after his favourite game. Unfortunately not all that photogenic as it is wide and low.
The Blue Palace, built in 1884 as a residence for the heir to the throne, now one of the President’s official residences.
The 1910 Government House, now the National Museum
The former French embassy, built 1909-10, now part of the Central National Library. There is a vicious rumour that the architect Paul Guadet actually intended the plan for the French embassy in Cairo and there was a postal confusion, Research indicates that this is not actually true.
The old British Embassy, built 1912, now the town music academy. When Montenegro eventually became independent again in 2005, the UK’s initial representative in Podgorica was a local hire, a friend of mine who is now the Governor of the Central Bank.
Coincidentally, the only museum that was open on a Saturday was the one run by the Central Bank, the Museum of Currency which records the many denominations that have been used in Montenegro over the millennia. Montenegro now uses the euro.
Statues of a woman and a man in traditional costume outside the Ministry of Culture headquarters. I was not able to find the date or artist.
1983 monument to Ivan Crnojević, founder of the city (sculptor Anto Gržetić)
2013 monument by Dimitrije Popović, “To the Glory of Njegoš’ Thought”, commemorating Petar II Petrović-Njegoš
2022 statue of Princess Xenia Petrović-Njegoš, also by Dimitrije Popović

As you can tell, it was also a rather grey day, and I think Cetinje will reward a longer visit on a weekday when the sun is shining. But as I wove back down the mountains in my taxi back to Podgorica, the views were pretty stunning.